Studio Visit: Patricia Underwood

One of the most iconic hat designers of our time, Patricia Underwood has been creating unadorned handmade, hand-finished designs for over thirty-five years. Her hats – designed with complementing the wearer’s clothing in mind – have been worn by royalty, featured in Broadway productions, and are in the permanent collections of the Metropolitan Museum Costume Institute and Fashion Institute of Technology Museum, to name a few.

Patricia’s new book, The Way You Wear Your Hat, is a stunning celebration of both her career and the hat itself, and I’m thrilled to be a part of its launch. I hope you’ll join us in my West Hollywood store next Friday, May 1st for an exclusive book signing with Patricia herself, as well as an assortment of her Spring & Summer hats.*

Patricia was kind enough to welcome us into her NYC studio for a look at her creative space and process. I hope you enjoy this look inside. XXJKE

R+T: Can you share a bit about your journey in the world of fashion and how it lead you to millinery?
I have no formal training in Fashion but have always loved clothes and been interested in how they are made, dressing myself on a very limited budget. I took an evening class at Fashion Institute in New York, as I could not find hats to fit that I liked.

R+T: How would you describe your aesthetic?

I believe that hats have to complement clothes to be relevant to a woman’s life – not overly fussy – interesting – practical.

R+T: What does handmade mean to you?

Though-through. Considered. Comfortable.

R+T: If you had to, could you pick a favorite hat or collection?

The hat that makes the wearer feel at best in herself.

R+T: From actresses to musicians to royalty, your hats have adorned some of the world’s most remarkable women. Is there one instance that stands out as being particularly gratifying?

The story of a man who fell in love with the woman who became his wife because she was wearing one of my hats when he first saw her.

R+T: Can you share a bit about how the brand has evolved over the past 35 years? What are the constants that have carried the brand to where it is today?

We adapt to the world of Fashion – we maintain the credo of proportion, colour and shape being important to changing proportions.

R+T: What is the most rewarding part of your work?

Seeing hats being worn.

R+T: Tell us about your studio space… How long have you been there? What drew you to it? And what impact does it have on the work?

Our top floor studio is small but light and with fabulous views of the Empire State and Chrysler buildings, which are ever changing with the weather and time of day. We have been here for over six years – the seventh space we have occupied in NYC. We like it because it is on the top floor and hats are worn on the top of the body. The light and air around make up for the lack of space.

R+T: A well-designed studio is one that…

Keeps the flow of work going.

R+T: Tell us about a typical day in the studio…

No day is typical…we might have special orders, production, stylists visiting, a machine to repair, research to do, customers coming, hats to ship.

R+T: Can you tell us about your hat molds? How many do you have and how long have you been collecting?

We have over 1,000 hat blocks. Over the last 40 years I have designed and collected blocks for inspiration because I love them as tools for the work and their fascinating shapes as part of the studio space. They are a comforting and enduring presence.

R+T: Top five workspace musts?

Light, a view, good tools and machines, materials at hand, a great team.

*Patricia Underwood Event & Book Signing

Friday, May 1st 4-6pm

614 Almont Drive West Hollywood, CA 90069

Shop and enjoy 10% off any in store purchase

RSVP to Jenna Todey at jtodey@jennikayne.com

Photos: Sarah Elliott