Studio Visit: Make Smith Leather Co.

I spotlighted Make Smith’s handmade leather goods and our exclusive collaboration earlier this week, but wanted to share a more in-depth look inside. Led by third-generation leather craftsman Steven Soria, it is a brand rich in tradition, with a product offering that feels all at once modern and timeless.

For his pieces, Steven uses primarily equestrian leathers such as bridle and latigo, and cites clean, utilitarian design and artisanal craftsmanship as central influences in his work. He was kind enough to share a bit of the history and DNA of the brand, as well as a glimpse into Make Smith’s Santa Barbara-based traditional leather crafting workshop. I hope you enjoy this look inside. XXJKE

The Basics

R+T: When did you start your business and what inspired you?

I officially started my business on September 6th, 2013. That was the day that I opened my doors to the public and my current location in downtown Santa Barbara. I was already selling online and doing custom leather work, but I wanted more of a presence. It’s here that I created a collection of designed goods and opened a small shop.

R+T: Make Smith was born of a family business. Could you tell us about its evolution?

My grandfather and his brother were saddle makers up until the late 60’s. My dad grew up around the shop and eventually ended up taking it over. By this time much of the world had changed, moving away from needing saddle work, which changed the leather shop into a repair shop that worked mostly on travel goods. Eventually my mom started working there, too. And, after I came along, eventually I worked there, too. I was raised around the family business so my play toys were tools and leather. I eventually went on to explore fine arts and integrated our family trade into my practice.

R+T: How would you describe your design aesthetic? How does it agree or collide with the family history of the brand?

Make Smith has a handmade, yet refined style. Its style is rooted in the saddlery/western equestrian, look with bold stitch and rustic textured leather, but with the finely crafted finishing techniques of classic Italian leather craft. We find visual inspiration from turn-of-the-century industrial designers such as Carl Auböck and fine artists such as Constantin Brancusi when incorporating casted metals and woodworking. I look at anything I make as a sculptural object.

R+T: How has your design aesthetic evolved as Make Smith has?

Our design atheistic is starting to incorporate much more than just leather. As we move into metalsmithing and woodworking, it’s becoming more like industrial design. Our designs are becoming more streamlined, simple and minimalist. When we brand our leather we use a small logo. We want our materials to take a step forward and be of focus of the object.

R+T: What do you love about leather?

The smell. Although it’s ingrained in my nose, and I’m not sure I can even smell it anymore. I still love it.

The Brand

R+T: What would you say is the DNA of Make Smith?

The creation of seductive objects. Or, as we like to call them in the studio, “Nuggets.” Nugget: noun 1) a small lump of gold or other precious metal found ready-formed in the earth 2) a small chunk or lump of another substance 3) a valuable idea or fact

R+T: Who do you design for, and who do you get excited about seeing wear/use your pieces?

I went from designing solely for women, to designing solely for men. Now, Make Smith has found a middle ground, making well-designed pieces that are more unisex. I personally have always loved a “boyfriend-jean” tomboy style on the ladies… thats where I think Make Smith exists best. Leather goods for both men and women. Classic styles that everyone loves.

R+T: What’s next for Make Smith?

That is a secret. But we are having our First Year Anniversary on September 6^th… so there will be a special announcement in the near future.

R+T: The most important thing for me is to make sure that Make Smith is…

Retaining a sense of integrity, craftsmanship and honor.

The Product

R+T: What was the first leather good you ever made?

I made a leather belt for my younger cousin. I was probably 5 or 6 years old. I remember drawing on it with a blue ball point pen to make some squiggly line designs.

R+T: What is your favorite thing to make?

Anything new. I love to just go for it. It’s nice to put some time aside to just make something from thought, not from sketches, but just from being in the moment and making something that just feels right.

R+T: If you were to gift an item to someone you love from your capsule collection with Jenni Kayne, which piece would you choose?

Definitely, the casted bronze bottle opener – it’s the most beautiful little golden nugget. Its got that WOW factor… so it makes for a great gift-giving experience.

The Studio

If you could summarize your creative space in five words, they’d be…

Knolled, classic, musk, productive and fun.

R+T: How long have you been in this space and how did you find it?

Word of mouth. Everything good in life comes from word of mouth.

R+T: Tell us a little about this history of your workshop space.

It’s right behind the shop where my parents had their leather shop business, so for me to be back in this neighborhood is like a dream come true. I guess it was meant to be and all that stuff…

R+T: When we first moved into the space it was filled with…

Bees!!!!!! We had bees living in this old storage unit that we now call our workshop.

R+T: What was your inspiration for the design of your space?

I just set it up the way I need to use it. I have certain rules for building any shop space that have mostly to do with function and process, so I just applied that to the whole place, even our display area.

R+T: What was your biggest challenge in designing the space and how did you solve it?

I’m just constantly moving things around. Things being in the right place is always going to be my problem.

R+T: How do you balance having a functional studio that also looks great?

You just gotta keep it clean and tidy. Tom Sachs said it best, when he said, “Always be knolling.” –http://www.tomsachs.org/

R+T: Tell us about a typical day in the studio..

I’ve said this before, so I’d like this to become my legendary quote of how my days breaks down:

6am – Wake up, then coffee, walk to work, make a list of things to do, then don’t do them. Procrastinate, then do something creative. Then, address the to-do-list with a sense of impending deadline fear, and attack everything on the list until it is clear. 8pm – Walk home. Cook dinner. Go to bed. The End.

R+T: What are your three must­ haves in the studio?

Coffee, music, and a dog.