Studio Visit: Eddie Borgo

I was first introduced to Eddie by Patrick Bradbury while in Paris over four years ago – and instantly fell in love with his jewelry as much as I did his personality. I am now fortunate to carry his beautiful pieces in my stores. Needless to say, I’m not the only one who is smitten. Since its launch in 2008, his eponymous collection has amassed a worldwide following. Equal parts edge and timeless elegance, his pieces are the definition of modern luxury, and have earned him numerous accolades from the CFDA, Vogue Fashion Fund and others. Some of my current favorites: his Door Latch Cuff, Safety Chain Cuff, Padlock Pendant Necklace, and this incredible Five Finger Ring.

His Downtown Manhattan studio feels much like his iconic pieces – sleek, architectural, and impossibly cool. I hope you enjoy this look inside. XXJKE

R+T: When did you start your business and what inspired you to do so?

Starting in 2002, I began creating one-of-a kind pieces for stylists such as Tabitha Simmons, Camilla Nickerson, and Patti Wilson. In the summer of 2008, I was asked to create the jewelry for Phillip Lim’s SS09 show, at which time I launched my namesake collection.

Many of the pieces that I was making for these shoots were jewelry-based, so it made sense at some point that I would consider moving in the direction of jewelry design. I began apprenticing different jewelers in NYC and traveling to Rhode Island (where we do most of our production), and, when I had the confidence, I launched the collection. We launched in Barneys, Colette, Liberty and Joyce.

R+T: What is your favorite part about designing jewelry?

My collection plays with the ideas we have of subculture, and then how those subcultures trickle up to into the luxury fashion market. I look a lot at the history of rock and roll, as well as punk rock and glam rock, in New York City.

I am interested in the many ways that music has helped to shape history and want to identify symbols that we attribute to the different realms of NYC culture; how and why a padlock around someone’s neck can immediately establish their identity. This is one of my favorite parts of designing jewelry.

I enjoy working with a wide range of materials. I have worked with stained glass, pave crystal, ebony wood, rock crystal, onyx, petrified wood, sterling silver, semi-precious stones, glass, and brass. I love the idea of combining materials that are not typically used in combination. One of my favorite materials to work with is rubber. Costume Jewelry allows you the freedom to experiment and try new techniques.

R+T: What has been your biggest challenge in business?

Time management.

R+T: If you had to choose one piece, what is your favorite piece of jewelry you have ever made?

Our most iconic piece, and my personal favorite, is our Cone Bracelet – we offer them in a variety of scales and materials from oversized to micro, in hand-cut pave crystal, semi-precious gemstone, and high-polished metals.

I am fascinated by fine jewelry constructions and techniques. At my studio, we spend a lot of time researching and analyzing our stone settings, hinge work and closures to ensure the highest quality standards. The pieces that are the most challenging and complex in terms of engineering are the pieces that I enjoy designing the most

R+T: How long have you been in this space and how did you find it?

We moved into our current studio in January 2012 and have already completely outgrown the space. A designer and close friend recommended the location and I signed the lease, to the dismay of my lawyer, within days of viewing the space. I fell in love with it – it is really such a unique space to find in this neighborhood.

R+T: What was your inspiration for the design?

The building used to provide the Nolita and Soho areas of Manhattan with electrical power. Rumor has it that Thomas Edison used to have a laboratory in the space next door. I wanted to maintain the spirit and history of the building, and removed all the drywall the former landlord used to cover up the authenticity of the unique space. The concrete floors were covered in layers of paint, so we sandblasted them to a great effect; we removed the drop ceiling and wall coverings, exposing the skeleton of the space. Then, we painted everything white.

R+T: What was your biggest challenge in designing the space and how did you solve it?

Installing the HVAC was an absolute nightmare, dealing with contractors – all the usual stuff. It was all worth it!

R+T: When you first moved into the space, it was filled with:

Restaurant equipment and squatters.

R+T: How do you balance having a functional studio that also looks great?

The studio is an open plan, so we have some house practices that are encouraged and well received and respected by my staff. It is really important to all of us that the studio is always organized and everything is always easy to find.

R+T: Tell us about a typical day in the studio.

I arrive and catch up on email. Then, I meet with my team (Design), followed by meetings with all of the other departments. I usually have to run out (either uptown to the workshop or to a business meeting), and am usually at work late. There is always a new challenge to conquer – or attempt to.

R+T: What are your three must-haves in the studio?

Music, organization, and snacks.

R+T: What’s your favorite piece in the studio?

The glass terrarium that the team bought me for the holiday last year.

R+T: Do you order in or go out to lunch when you’re working? What are your favorite restaurants nearby?

It depends on the day, but I love Café Habana, Café Gitane, Juice Press.

R+T: What music do you listen to when you are working?

David Bowie, The Velvet Underground, The Rolling Stones.

R+T: Who do you get excited about seeing your jewelry on?

An empowered woman; smart, confident, and determined.